TRUE NORTH

Unscripted Latitude

Cinque Terre-Hiking the 5 Villages

If you want jaw-dropping coastal views without being shoulder-checked by tour bus traffic around every hairpin turn, do yourself a favor: hike between the five ridiculously scenic villages of Italy’s Cinque Terre. It’s the most soul-satisfying way to soak in Ligurian beauty without ending up in someone’s Instagram reel looking confused, sunburnt and irritated…too often my look around tourist….oh wait…I am one.

The crown jewel of this journey? The Sentiero Azzurro, or Blue Trail — a 12-kilometer coastal path that strings together all five villages like pearls on a sweaty, slightly uphill necklace. Just a heads-up: landslides are a thing here, because Mama Nature doesn’t give a rat’s behind about our travel plans. Always check local trail conditions before you set out — there are alternate routes, so you won’t be stuck sipping cappuccinos in one spot or wine in another (no judgement here, that sounds kind of nice.) Keep in mind, these alternate routes add significantly to the distance between towns.

Now, you could hike the whole trail in one alpha-aggressive 5–7 hour push, but let’s be honest — you’re in Italy. Slow down. Snack often. Turn your hike into a multi-day adventure with wine, seafood, and sun-drenched village charm at every stop. Trust me, you won’t regret practicing “il dolce far niente” or “the art of doing nothing.” So drag it out…soon enough you’ll be back in your cubical, or wherever it is that keeps the money coming in. 

Riomaggiore to Manarola: The Warm-Up

Kick things off in Riomaggiore, where the buildings cling to the cliffs like my grip on adulthood. The path to Manarola is a breezy 30-minute stroll along the Via dell’Amore — yes, that’s the Path of Love. Cheesy? A little. But you’ll be too busy staring at the views (or someone special) to care. In Manarola, you’ll want to refuel with Sciacchetrà, a local dessert wine made from grapes hand-picked from steep terraced vineyards — basically, liquid gold with a buzz…since I don’t dare take my gummies on international flights any longer….Damn Germany!

Manarola to Corniglia: Grit Your Calves

Next up, Corniglia. Unlike its seaside siblings, this village plays hard to get. Perched high on a cliff, it demands a little respect — and 2.8 km of your energy with a gentle 147-meter elevation gain. It’s an easy hike, clocking in at under an hour, unless you’re stopping for every photo op (I can never tell if I’m stopping for all this photo ops because I want 2000 photographs or is it ti catch my breath?).

Corniglia has an old-school charm that feels more like a hideout than a tourist stop. It’s the only village without direct beach access, but it makes up for it with quiet piazzas, killer views, and gelato that’ll make you rethink your life choices.

Corniglia to Vernazza: The Showstopper

This is where things start heating up. The 3.5 km stretch to Vernazza is moderately challenging — about 210 meters of elevation gain, tight trails, and just enough uphill to remind you that hiking is a full-body sport….it reminds me that I have great hair and still 40 pounds to go.  Give it 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how many times you stop to say “wow.”

Vernazza is a stunner. A medieval castle stands watch over a harbor that looks like it was painted by someone who only does “perfect.” You’ll find boats bobbing in turquoise water, cats sleeping on stone walls, and pesto that’ll haunt your dreams (in a good way).

Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare: Finish Strong

The final stretch to Monterosso is just under 4 km, but don’t let the distance fool you. With 240 meters of elevation gain and steps designed by someone with a grudge against knees, this section is a leg-burning, sweat-dripping finale. Give yourself 1.5 to 2 hours — more if you’re distracted by the views, which is a real danger.

Monterosso is the largest and most resort-y of the five villages, with a legit beach, cold beers, and seafood pasta that tastes like Poseidon’s personal recipe. Kick off your boots, raise a glass, and toast yourself for conquering one of the most iconic hikes in Europe — no buses, no crowds, (until you get into town) just you, your calves, and a thousand memories.